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Another variation of lug nut is the "locking wheel nut", which is used as a theft prevention method to keep thieves from stealing a vehicle's wheels. When utilizing locking wheel nuts, one standard lug nut on each wheel is replaced with a nut that requires a unique key (typically a computer-designed, rounded star shape) to fit and remove the nut.
On steering wheels for cars utilizing bolt circles, this usually measures 6×70 mm. [3] Some racing wheels attach to the car via a quick release hub, [4] and this hub then usually has a corresponding bolt circle of 6×70 mm. Example of other less used patterns include: 3×1.75 in (44.45 mm), 5×2.75 in (69.85 mm), 6×74 mm and 6×2.75 in (69.85 mm).
The conical lug's taper is normally 60 degrees (although 45 degrees is common for wheels designed for racing applications), and is designed to help center the wheel accurately on the axle, and to reduce the tendency for the nut to loosen due to fretting induced precession, as the car is driven. One popular alternative to the conical lug seating ...
The prying tip is mainly intended to remove hub caps or wheel covers that may be covering a wheel's lug nuts. Another common type, sometimes called a spider wrench, is made in the shape of a cross with different sized sockets on each of the four ends. Other names are four way wheel wrench, spanner, brace, or cross.
The original short-wheelbase 90-inch (2,286 mm) and the new long wheelbase 108-inch (2,743 mm) vans came with a 5 × 4-3/4" lug bolt pattern. An addition for 1967 was the G20 heavy-duty 3/4-ton version. The G-20 featured heavier suspension, a 12-bolt rear axle, and increased hauling capability with wheels having a 6-lug bolt pattern.
With lug bolts, on the other hand, the whole hub usually has to be replaced in case of stripped threads in the hub. One motivation for using lug bolts instead of wheel studs and nuts the number of parts that needs to be attached to the wheel hub. Wheel studs and lug nuts consist of two parts, while the lug bolt is a single part.