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Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device. It is more bulky and less prone to jamming than the ...
In trad climbing belay stations, load-sharing anchors are often constructed from more than two individual anchors, which are rarely co-planar. In these cases, each individual anchor would feel a reduced force from the above values, but the best practice is to reduce the angle between the two outermost elements and avoid angles in excess of 120 ...
Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, [15] such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using ...
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of climbing protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Climbing routes that are bolted are known as sport climbs, and those that do not use (or allow) bolts, are known as traditional climbs.
1960s-era pitons, including: knifeblades, lost arrows, bugaboos, ring angles, and bongs. A piton (/ ˈ p iː t ɒ n /; also called pin or peg) in big wall climbing and in aid climbing is a metal spike (usually steel) that is driven into a crack or seam in the climbing surface using a climbing hammer, and which acts as an anchor for protecting the climber from falling or to assist progress in ...
While the Grigri was designed as a belay device, some big wall climbers (such as those climbing Yosemite's Half Dome or El Capitan) have invented novel ways to extend its use and compromise its safety. For example, some big wall rope soloists use the Grigri (sometimes slightly modified) as a self-feeding hands-free self-belay device.