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A justacorps or justaucorps (/ ˈ ʒ uː s t ə k ɔːr /) [1] is a knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century. It is of French origin, where it had developed from a cape-like garment called a casaque. [2]
Sleeved buff coat once belonging to King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden. A bullet-hole is visible in the lower right of the torso section (left to the viewer) The European buff coat is an item of leather clothing that was primarily worn by cavalry and officers during the 17th century, but also worn by a small number of infantry.
A longer and rather baggy coat (still with sleeves rarely going below the elbow) made an appearance in the early 1660s and as the decade progressed became the most popular coat. The coat would eventually replace the doublet. By the late 1660s, an upturned cuff became popular although the sleeves had still remained above the elbows.
The long, tight sleeves of the early 17th century grew shorter, fuller, and looser. A common style of the 1620s and 1630s was the virago sleeve, a full, slashed sleeve gathered into two puffs by a ribbon or other trim above the elbow. In France and England, lightweight bright or pastel-coloured satins replaced dark, heavy fabrics.
Frock coats, albeit often in other colours than black, survive until this day in the livery of hotel staff. King Tupou VI of Tonga (born 1959) is a frequent wearer of frock coats. Examples of frock coats in fashion in the 21st century include Alexander McQueen in 2012, [12] Prada's autumn edition in 2012, and Paul Smith in 2018. [13]
A "surtout" was a 17th-century term used to describe a coat worn over another coat, like a waistcoat. Surtout was a new name for it; prior to 1684, it was known as "Suravit" on account of Surhabit (overcoat). [1] Surtout is also a French term that translates as "above all." [2]
The doublet fell permanently out of fashion in the mid-17th century when Louis XIV of France and Charles II of England established a court costume for men consisting of a long coat, a waistcoat, a cravat, a wig, and breeches—the ancestor of the modern suit.
Caricature of Mr John Delacour (19th century) wearing dress coat with top hat for white tie. A dress coat, sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the white tie dress code, also known as evening full dress, for formal evening