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Adam Ondra on the sport climbing route Silence, the hardest free climbing route in the world and the first-ever at 9c (French), 5.15d (American YDS), and XII+ (UIAA).. The two main free climbing grading systems (which include the two main free climbing disciplines of sport climbing and traditional climbing) are the "French numerical system" and the "American YDS system". [2]
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a five-part grading system used for rating the difficulty of rock climbing routes in the United States and Canada. [1] It was first devised by members of the Sierra Club in Southern California in the 1950s as a refinement of earlier systems from the 1930s, [2] and quickly spread throughout North America.
The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was the first Grade VI big wall climbing route in the United States. It was first climbed in 1957 by a team consisting of Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas. Its current aid climbing rating is VI 5.9 A1 or 5.12 for the free climbing variation. [1]
Climbing routes in rock climbing are given a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents, and recorded in online databased or physical guidebooks. While many ...
Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities. [2]
El Sendero Luminoso is the name of a big wall climbing bolted route at El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León, Mexico that rises over 1500 ft (~450 m) up the front side of El Toro mountain. It is one of the hardest big wall routes in the area and 11 of its 15 pitches are graded at over 5.12 (7b/+).
Mixed climbing routes can cover a broad range of types. Some mixed climbing routes are combinations of an ice climbing route (i.e. a large frozen icicle, frozen alpine couloirs, or frozen water cascade) and a dry-tooling route (i.e. need to pass a rock overhang or rock roof to get to the frozen ice part); these routes have both a full mixed climbing grade (M-grade) and a full ice climbing ...
The official climbing guidebooks were the first systematic forms of beta. [10] The beta in these physical climbing guidebooks was limited to the basic details of the climbing route (e.g. length, grade, direction/topo etc.) so as to manage the size of the guidebook and avoid giving so much information that would spoil an onsight attempt. [10]