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Goldwork is always surface embroidery and free embroidery; the vast majority is a form of laid work or couching; that is, the gold threads are held onto the surface of the fabric by a second thread, usually of fine silk. The ends of the thread, depending on type, are simply cut off, or are pulled through to the back of the embroidery and ...
In Roumanian couching, bundles of laid threads are held in place with Roumanian stitches. In underside couching, a heavy couching thread (historically, a stout linen) is brought up from the wrong side of the work, looped over the laid thread, and returned to the wrong side. The couching thread is then given a sharp pull which draws a small loop ...
An illustration of the buttonhole stitch. In everyday language, a stitch in the context of embroidery or hand-sewing is defined as the movement of the embroidery needle from the back of the fibre to the front side and back to the back side. [1] The thread stroke on the front side produced by this is also called stitch.
Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for goldwork. Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile.
The colcha stitch is known in many parts of the world, under names such as the bokhara couching stitch, convent stitch, Deerfield stitch, and figure stitch. It has been found on 18th century quilts, as well as wall hangings and altar cloths in a region encompassing northern New Mexico and southern Colorado.
Outlining stitches such as stem stitch, chain stitch and split stitch; Satin stitches to create flat, filled areas within a design [4] Couched stitches, where one thread is laid on the surface of the fabric and another thread is used to tie it down. Couching is often used to create a trellis effect within an area of the design.
Rendered in silk and gold threads, its craftsmanship exhibits techniques such as underside couching, split stitch, laid and couched work, and raised work, all stitched onto a lush velvet base. [11] On the front of the chasuble, the artwork predominantly features the Apostles, each seated on faldstools.
A second technique uses a fine hook to chain stitch thread to the fabric; in Europe this technique is known as Tambour [4] or Luneville [5] embroidery, and is commonly used to bead haute couture garments. In India the work is called Zari or Moochi Aari, [6] or just Aari [7] and is used on garments and furnishings. A hallmark of Tambour or ...