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The human body has optimal endurance below 150 m (490 ft) elevation. [6] The concentration of oxygen (O 2) in air is 20.9% so the partial pressure of O 2 (PO 2) at sea level is about 21.2 kPa (6.3 inHg; 3.07 psi). In healthy individuals, this saturates hemoglobin, the oxygen-binding red pigment in red blood cells. [7]
On July 18, 2023, Hugo Ayaviri climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks. [35] On July 19, 2023, Andrzej Bargiel made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski ...
[5] [14] It is estimated that at 4,000 meters (13,000 ft) altitude, every lungful of air has approximately 60% of the oxygen molecules found in a lungful of air at sea level. [22] Highlanders are thus constantly exposed to a low oxygen environment, yet they live without any debilitating problems. [23]
Mitigation may be by supplementary oxygen, pressurisation of the habitat or environmental protection suit, or a combination of both. In all cases the critical effect is the raising of oxygen partial pressure in the breathing gas. [1] Room air at altitude can be enriched with oxygen without introducing an unacceptable fire hazard.
In the region from sea level to around 3,000 m (10,000 ft), known as the physiological-efficient zone, oxygen levels are usually high enough for humans to function without supplemental oxygen and altitude decompression sickness is rare. The physiological-deficient zone extends from 3,600 m (12,000 ft) to about 15,000 m (50,000 ft).
The first ascent took the West Spur and was accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters, or base camp support. [4] In July 2007, an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres. [6] [7]
Two years later, on 20 August 1980, Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world, without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to the summit, where he crossed above the North Col in the North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to the summit ...
At sea level, water boils at 100 °C (212 °F). For every 152.4-metre (500 ft) increase in elevation, water's boiling point is lowered by approximately 1°F. At 2,438.4 metres (8,000 ft) in elevation, water boils at just 92 °C (198 °F). Boiling as a cooking method must be adjusted or alternatives applied.