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The shawl lapel, shawl collar, or roll collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket , it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo. [ 4 ] This similarly began as informal eveningwear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used.
The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons, and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century, the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material.
The "Norwich shawl" was produced by hand weavers using silk and worsted and supplied the high end of the market. [7] [8] Paisley shawls, imitation Kashmiri shawls woven in Paisley, Renfrewshire, are the origin of the name of the traditional paisley pattern. Decline in market for expensive shawls, due to changes in fashion and the mass market ...
Unlike the gentlemen officers' jacket, which has a pointed lapel, the ladies' jacket features a shawl collar. From the 1970s and prior to the introduction of current women's mess dress in 1996, female officers wore a royal blue Empire line dress made of crimplene material with a loose mandarin neck, long sleeves, and an ankle length hem. Rank ...
A ruff from the early 17th century: detail from The Regentesses of St Elizabeth Hospital, Haarlem, by Verspronck A ruff from the 1620s. A ruff is an item of clothing worn in Western, Central and Northern Europe, as well as Spanish America, from the mid-16th century to the mid-17th century.
The jacket was further decorated with patterns sewn in bullion lace, often in a pattern matching that of the dolman worn beneath it. The front of the jacket was distinctive and typically featured several rows of parallel froggings and loops, and either three or five vertical lines of buttons.