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This is the reason many use tea bags and other items to keep the fertilizer from mixing into the soil. Go for a particle size 3/16 inch being the smallest, 5/16th the largest, see if that helps. An open mix is near impossible to over water. yes, soil was sifted to eliminate fines. Soil size ranges from 3/16" to 1/4".
7a. Jul 3, 2021. #4. I also disagree with doing this to Scots pine. In the video. He is calling what he is doing "candle pinching". This is not my understanding of what candle pinching is. Candle pinching is going to the tree in mid spring and with your fingers pinching the medium and strong candles in half or more while leaving some of it there.
If I grow scotch pine from seed directly in the ground, will I have problems digging it back out later because of the more sensitive roots? I am much more confident with how deciduous species respond. My plan is to plant my stratified seeds this spring, cut the tap root next spring, then grow in the ground for a few more years. Any thoughts? p.s.
Belgium. Nov 21, 2016. #1. There are different ways to stimulate backbudding on scots pine (pinus sylvestris). This is what i use. (1) Get the tree vigorous. Long extensions all over the tree are needed. As a result the pine will build force and will backbud without your intervention. (2) Without intervention the initial backbudding will be ...
Whenever you have a place where multiple branches emminate from one spot, reduce to two. If you want, cut off the new growth at the Blue arrows. This will force the tree to backbud. Cutting at B will cause the branch to die. You always have to leave some foliage on pines.
Dec 8, 2016. #6. Pinus nigra is the European, sometimes called Austrian black pine, it is a single flush of growth pine, techniques used for it are more or less the same as techniques for Scotts or Scotch pine, Pinus sylvestris. Do not decandle like you would a Japanese black pine. Some needles falling in autumn is normal, especially 3 year old ...
your pine looks old & natural after your work IMO the thing to avoid, as the soil looks like 100% humus/organic soil, is root rot after the removal of 50% (or more) of the foliage. After that removal, the evapo-transpiration of your pine will be 50% lower than before, so the soil will take longer to dry out.
1. Start with a Scots Pine distressed from poor soil and stupid stunts done to it. 2. Apply remedial steps and be rewarded with profuse candles and backbuds. 3. Decide to take a picture to show how nicely the needles are coming in. 4. Lift 9,000 pound ceramic (expensive) pot to place tree in advantageous picture location.
On the other hand, if you are saying that you water and still find dry spots, water heavily, wait, water heavily again or immerse the pot in a tub for a few minutes if you can, until there are no more dry spots. Second thing is, AFAIK, p. sylvestris is hardy to zone 3.
The scars heal over really well. Obviously if turning the branch into a Jin is a better option, then do that. Just note that in species like pine, not cutting it flush on structural flaws (more than 2 branches being corrected), will result in continual swelling of that junction unless you cut it flush. W.