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With the exception of silver jewelry, which was introduced to Zuni Pueblo in the 19th century, most of the materials commonly worked by Zuni jewelry makers in the 20th century have always been in use in the Zuni region. These include turquoise, jet, argillite, steatite, red shale, freshwater clam shell, abalone, and spiny oyster. [62]
Effie Calavaza was born in 1927 in Zuni, New Mexico as Effie Lankeseon, [4] [5] where she lived her entire life. [6] She married Juan Calavaza (1910–1970), also a jewelry artist, who taught her the art. Until her husband's death in 1970, she signed her own work with her husband's signature, "JUAN C.–ZUNI".
The most important of these materials was turquoise which the Zuni regard as the sacred stone. Jet, shell (primarily mother-of-pearl), and coral are also frequently used. These materials and their associated colors are principle in the Zuni sunface, a cultural symbol which is present in Zuni jewelry and fetishes and represents their Sun Father.
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Zuni also make fetishes and necklaces for the purpose of rituals and trade, and more recently for sale to collectors. The Zuni are known for their fine lapidary work. Zuni jewelers set hand-cut turquoise and other stones in silver. [24] Today jewelry-making thrives as an art form among the Zuni. Many Zuni have become master stone-cutters.
Turquoise, jet, and spiny oyster shell have been traditionally used by Ancestral Pueblo for jewelry, and they developed sophisticated inlay techniques centuries ago. The Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) of the Chaco Canyon and surrounding region are believed to have prospered greatly from their production and trading of turquoise objects.