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A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.
Fetch length, along with the wind speed (wind strength), and duration, determines the size of waves produced. If the wind direction is constant, the longer the fetch and the greater the wind speed, the more wind energy is transferred to the water surface and the larger the resulting sea state will be. [4]
Non-linear kinematic wave for debris flow can be written as follows with complex non-linear coefficients: + =, where is the debris flow height, is the time, is the downstream channel position, is the pressure gradient and the depth dependent nonlinear variable wave speed, and is a flow height and pressure gradient dependent variable diffusion term.
For a depth of four kilometres, the wave speed, , is about 200 metres per second, but for the first baroclinic mode in the ocean, a typical phase speed would be about 2.8 m/s, causing an equatorial Kelvin wave to take 2 months to cross the Pacific Ocean between New Guinea and South America; for higher ocean and atmospheric modes, the phase ...
A wave model requires as initial conditions information describing the state of the sea. An analysis of the sea or ocean can be created through data assimilation, where observations such as buoy or satellite altimeter measurements are combined with a background guess from a previous forecast or climatology to create the best estimate of the ongoing conditions.
deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > 1 / 2 λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean surface), [9]
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where = (/), is the scale parameter, is the phase speed of free gravity waves, is the wind speed and is the angular frequency of the wave. The wind speed as a function of height was found by integrating the Orr-Sommerfeld equation with the assumption of a logarithmic boundary layer and that in the equilibrium state no currents below the sea ...