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Dove and Rose jacquard-woven silk and wool double cloth furnishing textile, designed by William Morris in 1879. [1]Double cloth or double weave (also doublecloth, double-cloth, doubleweave) is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. [2]
The distinctively patterned, heavy-knit Cowichan sweaters, popular among British Columbians and tourists, are produced using this method. Cowichan knitting is an acculturated art form, a combination of European textile techniques and Salish spinning and weaving methods. From this union, new tools, techniques and designs developed over the years.
Alternating sets of threads are lifted by connecting them with string or wires called heddles to another bar, called the shaft (or heddle bar or heald). Heddles, shafts and the couper (lever to lift the assembly) are called the harness — the harness provides for mechanical operation using foot- or hand-operated treadles.
The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver; a large rope of fibres. [3] In drawing, four slivers are combined into one. Repeated drawing decreases the quality of the sliver drastically, disabling finer counts from being spun. [4] Each sliver will have thin and thick spots.
This is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles or healds, are attached. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.
The double rapier is used more frequently than the single rapier due to its increased pick insertion speed and ability to weave wider widths of fabric. The housing for the rapiers must take up as much space as the width of the machine. To overcome this problem, looms with flexible rapiers have been devised. The flexible rapier can be coiled as ...
The warp is threaded through heddles on different shafts in order to obtain different weave structures. For a plain weave on a loom with two shafts, for example, the first thread would go through the first heddle on the first shaft, and then the next thread through the first heddle on the second shaft.
[4] To use a temple, the length is first adjusted so that it matches the total width (or spread) of warp threads in the reed. The prongs are then inserted into the fabric, on each side, at the very edges of the cloth. The temple must be moved frequently to keep it close to the fell of the fabric, where the weaving is taking place. [2]