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A plate showing the uniform of a U.S. Army first sergeant, circa 1858, influenced by the French army. The military uniforms of the Union Army in the American Civil War were widely varied and, due to limitations on supply of wool and other materials, based on availability and cost of materials. [1]
Katcher, Philip. Volstad, Ron. (1986) American Civil War armies: Volunteer militia Osprey ISBN 978-0-85045-679-0; Spencer, John D. (2006) The American Civil War in the Indian Territory Osprey ISBN 978-1-84603-000-0; Emerson, William K. (1996) Encyclopedia of United States Army insignia and uniforms University of Oklahoma Press ISBN 978-0-8061 ...
Confederate uniforms, plate 172 of the Civil War Atlas. Each branch of the Confederate States armed forces had its own service dress and fatigue uniforms and regulations regarding them during the American Civil War, which lasted from April 12, 1861, until May 1865.
The Hardee hat, also known as the Model 1858 Dress Hat and sometimes nicknamed the "Jeff Davis", was the regulation dress hat for enlisted men in the Union Army during the American Civil War. The Hardee hat was also worn by Confederate soldiers.
Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5; Cashin, Joan E. "Torn Bonnets and Stolen Silks: Fashion, Gender, Race, and Danger in the Wartime South." Civil War History 61#4 (2015): 338-361. online On the Confederate States of America
After the war the U.S. Army issued a series of kepi undress caps, characterised by their increasing smartness and decreasing practicality. The last model was issued in 1896. When the United States introduced a revised blue dress uniform in 1902, the kepi was discontinued in favour of a conventional visor cap with wide top and a steep visor.