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  2. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.

  3. Breaking the Waves - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_the_Waves

    Some saw Breaking the Waves as mainstream cinema. Others saw it as a high budget experimental film due to its elaborate chapter shots and handheld camera in a sketchy raw style that followed the actors closely. Breaking the Waves marked an important change in focus for Lars von Trier. In von Trier's early films, the protagonist is a man ...

  4. Surf zone - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_zone

    The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.

  5. Rip current - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_current

    Breaking waves cross a sand bar off the shore. The pushed-in water can most easily travel back out to sea through a gap in the sand bar. This flow creates a fast-moving rip current. A rip current (or just rip) is a specific type of water current that can occur near

  6. What caused the huge waves that battered California’s coast?

    www.aol.com/news/caused-huge-waves-battered...

    The warnings advised people to steer clear of beaches while breaking waves of 15 to 25 feet were expected to hit the shoreline. ... “These waves can cause a modest rise in sea level, but that ...

  7. California beachgoers enthralled by huge waves from storms ...

    www.aol.com/california-beachgoers-enthralled...

    “Dangerously large breaking waves of 28 to 33 ft with up to 40 ft possible at favored locations,” the weather service said. The agency said San Francisco, Monterey Bay, Point Reyes and Big Sur ...

  8. Glossary of surfing - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_surfing

    Outside: Any point seaward of the normal breaking waves [3] Peak: The highest point on a wave [2] Pocket: The area of the wave that's closest to the curl or whitewash. Where you should surf if you want to generate the most speed. The steepest part of a wave, also known as the energy zone. Pounder: An unusually hard breaking wave [3]

  9. Stellar performances anchor dark debut of 'Breaking the Waves ...

    www.aol.com/stellar-performances-anchor-dark...

    “Breaking the Waves” plays two more performances this weekend, Friday at 7:30 p.m. and a Sunday matinee at 2:30 p.m., both at the Detroit Opera House. The production features explicit language ...